Avoid henna makeup, a bizarre viral trend that can burn your face

For many of us, henna (or mehendi) is primarily a means to adorn our hands and feet with stunning designs. On adventurous days, we might even use it in our hair for a hint of reddish colour, believing it to be a safer alternative to harsh hair dyes. However, in the ever-evolving landscape of social media, surprises are always around the corner.
A few months ago, the trend of faux freckles took off, with influencers creating delicate dots on their cheeks and noses using henna cones to achieve a freckled look.
Now, the henna trend has reached new heights, with people experimenting by using it for full-face makeup—applying it as eyeliner, lip tint, and more. While creativity is always exciting, this is one social media trend you might want to skip!
Henna is the name of a medicinal plant (Lawsonia inermis), and mehendi is made from the dried leaves of the henna plant. The leaves are ground into powder or paste and used as dyes.
Dr Piyusha Bhagde, founder and chief dermatologist at Skin Ethics Clinic, Akola, Maharashtra, tells India Today that the mehendi derived from the henna plant has an active ingredient called lawsone, which gives it an orange-red colour by oxidation on contact with skin.
The doctor adds that the henna available in the market contains many active chemicals like p-phenylenediamine (PPD), silver nitrate, carmine, and chromium.
To this, Dr Aditi Wadhwa, consultant, department of dermatology, Sharda Care, NCR, adds that paraphenylenediamine (PPD) is often found in black henna. This is a synthetic dye used to produce a very dark stain. Natural henna produces a reddish-brown colour, so if a product gives a jet-black colour, it likely contains PPD.
Meanwhile, sodium picramate is a chemical that is sometimes added to henna to make it stain darker or appear more vibrant.
Dr Wadhwa further tells us that pre-mixed henna pastes may contain preservatives or stabilisers to increase shelf life, which are not present in natural henna.
“All these are known to cause allergic reactions like itching, burning, redness, blisters, and even scarring of the skin,” Dr Bhagde shares.

The henna available in the market may contain harmful chemicals (Photo: Pexels/Robert Stokoe)

Dr Vidushi Jain, dermatologist and medical head at Dermalinks, NCR, mentions that there are some benefits of henna, especially when used in its natural form.
However, henna used to cover grey hair frequently can make the tresses brittle and also cause chronic sensitisation of the skin on the scalp.
Dr Bhagde warns against the trend of henna makeup, as its application on the face can cause watering in the eyes and nose, itching, redness, swelling, and even severe burns, leading to scars.
“This practice can lead to allergic contact dermatitis, similar to hair dyes used for colouring hair. It can become so severe that a person may need hospitalisation and the use of steroids to decrease the allergy,” she says.
“The chemicals present in henna can lead to permanent skin damage or sensitisation, making future exposures more dangerous,” adds Dr Wadhwa.
Furthermore, Dr Jain says that natural henna can cause dryness, irritation, or even allergy to the delicate skin of the face. If harmful additives, such as PPD, are present in the composition of henna, the risk of major reactions, burns, or permanent scars increases. The eyes are also vulnerable; if accidentally exposed to henna, it may cause a burning sensation or irritation.
Henna is generally safe on thicker skin areas like the hands, feet, arms, and legs, but extra care should be taken with sensitive areas like the face or near wounds. Additionally, chemical-laden henna should not be applied to broken, irritated, or sunburnt skin, as it may worsen irritation or lead to infection.
The experts mention that the application of henna on the face, eyelids, and even lips is not advised.